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From Llanes to Tazones: Following in the Wake of an Emperor

From Llanes to Tazones: Following in the Wake of an Emperor
— By David Eugene Perry; photos by Alfredo Casuso

Last night in Llanes, we stopped before a bronze plaque set into a sunlit yellow wall — its inscription recalling a moment five centuries ago when King Carlos I of Spain, soon to become Emperor Charles V, spent the nights of September 26 and 27, 1517, in this very town. Only seventeen, he had just arrived from Flanders to claim his inheritance as Spain’s first Habsburg monarch.

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That small plaque — a replica of an earlier wooden one — set our imagination in motion. It reminded us that Charles’s arrival had not been a triumphant parade but rather a journey born of chance and weather. His fleet, bound for Santander, was blown off course by storms and forced to land in the small Asturian fishing village of Tazones, not far from Llanes.

Ruta Mañanga, Porrúa

This morning, tracing his route, we drove west from Llanes to Porrúa, where we hiked the Ruta Mañanga — a two-hour trail through meadows, chestnut groves, and sea-view ridges. At every turn, Asturias offered up a gasp-worthy tableau of green, sea, and mountain air. Veterans of hundreds of hikes over 27 years, Alfredo and I easily listed this among our “top five” for scenic beauty, alongside favorites in Grazalema and Orvieto.

Afterward, we stopped at the Museum of Asturian Rural Life, an intimate and thoughtful collection that captures the region’s centuries-old farming and fishing traditions.

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Tazones: Where History Met the Sea

A short drive brought us to Tazones, where on September 19, 1517, Charles I first stepped onto Spanish soil.

Today the town remains a pocket-sized harbor of whitewashed and color-trimmed houses, fishing boats bobbing in the tide, and gulls circling over the Plaza del Riveru, once the center of the whaling and fishing trade.

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Plaque on the beach at Tazones marking Charles V’s historic landing, 1517. View of Tazones Bay from the commemorative marker — the same shore where the young emperor came ashore

Walking uphill through narrow cobbled streets, we paused at the Mirador de Les Muyeres, dedicated to the women who once watched from above for the fishing boats’ return. Nearby stands a touching wooden statue of a woman mending nets — a tribute to their endurance and central role in village life.

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“El Mirador de Les Muyeres”: the lookout where generations of women waited for the fishermen to come home, with wooden statue honoring the women of Tazones.

The Shellfish House and the Church of San Miguel

The Casa de las Conchas, the famous “shellfish house,” remains one of the most photographed buildings in Asturias — its entire façade covered in seashells, decorated with bright red balconies, lifebuoys, and a pirate flag fluttering above.

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The whimsical “Casa de las Conchas,” or Shellfish House, in Tazones.

Just beyond stands the small Church of San Miguel de Tazones, whose interior holds two poignant treasures: a beautifully preserved statue of Saint Michael and a plaque telling the story of El Niño Manolín, a small sacred image saved from the flames when the church was burned in 1936 during the Spanish Civil War.

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Statue of Saint Michael inside the Church of San Miguel with plaque recounting the rescue of “El Niño Manolín,” hidden to protect it from destruction during the Spanish Civil War.

Lunch by the Sea

We ended our visit at Mar-Bella, a seaside café near the harbor. Lunch was simple and perfect: navajas (razor clams), cabracho (a delicious pâté made of scorpionfish) and a chipirone (a small grilled squid) all paired with Asturian cider poured in the traditional way.

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Sidra natural served in a traditional wooden decantador — poured from a height to aerate the cider and bring out its sparkle.

In Asturias, cider isn’t just poured; it’s escanciada — a quick, precise motion that transforms the drink with a bit of air, a bit of theater, and a lot of local pride. Here it was done in an on-table device: adorable.

Following the Emperor’s Path — and the Dinosaurs’:

Charles’s 1517 route took him from Tazones inland to Villaviciosa, and then to AvilésGijónRibadesella, and Llanes, before continuing toward Valladolid. Along these same rugged coastlines, he first met the land he would rule.

We also discovered that Tazones hides another layer of history — or prehistory — beneath its cliffs: the Yacimiento del Puerto de Tazones, part of the Monumento Natural de los Yacimientos de Icnitas de Asturias, preserves fossilized dinosaur tracks from the Jurassic period, some 150 million years ago. 

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Information on Tazones from the age of the dinosaurs

Today, ours was a smaller voyage — just a drive, a hike, and a meal — but in the steps of emperors and dinosaurs. 

Happy Birthday Crystal Harmony / Asuka II

Happy Birthday Crystal Harmony / Asuka II

Ahoy! Today’s “Millergram” from the great Bill “Mr. Ocean Liner” Miller brought back so many happy memories: noting as it did the 35th birthday of my “first ship”, Crystal Harmony” (now Asuka II). In 1990, Kirk Frederick hired me to “help out” on a Christmas Cruise aboard “Harmony” and I was hooked. In 1998 and ‘99 I shipped out on her younger sister Crystal Symphony. It was there on deck “ship spotting” that I met Bill (many of whose books I already treasured), leading to a friendship as strong as anchor chains.

In 2000, Alfredo and I sailed (and worked) together aboard “Symphony” followed by another joint stint on “Harmony” to Mexico in 2001. Then, in 2014 we lectured our way across the Pacific with Bill Miller on “Symphony.” Those two sisters have been a big part of our life!

Ahoy and thank you Kirk and Bill! And, of course, without these two ships, Alfredo and I would not have met.

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6 October 2025: Bill Miller’s “Millergram.”

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Anniversary!  The late Mary Tyler Moore would be proud – the Asuka II turned 35 in July. The ship, operated by Japan’s NYK Cruises, is the former Crystal Harmony.  Ms Moore was the ship’s godmother back then, in June 1990, the very start-up of elegant Crystal Cruises. At the time, the 960-bed, Japanese-built Harmony was often described as the “most luxurious cruise ship yet built”.   It was  transferred in 2005 by then NYK-owned Crystal to fulltime Japanese cruise service.

We had the first of many cruises on the Harmony back in Aug 1990.   The ship was absolutely impeccable!  And we were aboard the ship’s final cruise under the Crystal houseflag (to Alaska out of San Francisco) in the summer of 2005.  

The Ravishing Renovations and Reopenings of the Plaza and Castro

The Ravishing Renovations and Reopenings of the Plaza and Castro

RAGE Monthly
OCTOBER 2025
Community Spotlight by Kevin Perry

A Tale of Two Dreamscapes:
The Ravishing Renovations and Reopenings of the Plaza and Castro

You shimmer from within, you sparkle out loud and you brighten gawd’s great universe. Your queer starlight is blinding, despite the haters trying to tone you down or marginalize your moonglow.

But no one can dim your dazzle.

Your unique brand of illumination has guided you through the turbulence of adolescence, the uncertainty of a world that misunderstands you, and the hatred of our current cultural climate. But now your gay glimmer will find its way to not one but TWO safe havens that will reopen their refurbished doors to the public soon.

THE PLAZA THEATRE IN PALM SPRINGS:

“Part of the magic of The Plaza Theatre is that it’s an atmospheric theater,” said J.R. Roberts, president of the restoration foundation. “In the 1930s, people were looking for an escape from the miseries of life, and movie theaters were the place they could go to sit in the dark, munch popcorn, and the outside world wasn’t there. The Plaza was an experience just walking into it because its architectural style was really like an old Spanish village. … When the lights came up, you had village scenes on either side of the auditorium, and when the lights went down, you’d get almost a sunset effect. And when the moon that faded, the ceiling would light up with twinkling stars, and that would remain through the film.”

Roberts continued: “The magic carpet ride started with Greta Garbo.” She reportedly lurked in the shadows while her movie Camille played out on the silver screen. “That was the world premiere of the film and it launched Hollywood’s connection to The Plaza Theatre. So the stars were already coming to Palm Springs to hide out. It was the place they could come and let their hair down and be themselves. And it was a little too far for the paparazzi to follow them.”

Palm Springs earned its reputation as a pop culture playground, and one theater dominated the game.

“The Plaza was just always full of big names and big, exciting connections to Hollywood and premieres,” Roberts said. “Bing Crosby and Bob Hope did live radio shows. … You also had such great acoustics that you had people like Frank Sinatra actually recording albums here.”

Listen up, because that landmark is getting a makeover. Innovation mingles with preservation to create a space that honors the past as it simultaneously forges the future.

“It was a challenge to restore it,” Roberts said. “You bet. But the great news is that it had never really been destroyed. Even though it was in a pretty advanced state of decay, most of the original lighting was there. The beautiful artwork on the ceiling had never been painted over. We found a gorgeous, hand-painted proscenium behind drywall … so we were able to do a true restoration versus a remodel, and all the original lighting has been restored. So when you walk through the doors, it will be 1936 again. But behind the walls, with respect to comfort and technology, it’ll be 2026. We are installing state-of-the-art sound, incredibly comfortable seats, the air conditioning and heating systems are all new, so to be in the theater will be a great experience, summer or winter.”

The Plaza is timeless and timely, boasting sold-out shows well before their reopening. Legends like Lily TomlinJohn Waters, and Billy Porter are posting eye-popping pre-sales … and that’s just the first week!

“We’re getting an incredible lineup, and we haven’t yet announced the opening night, which is actually December 1,” Roberts said. “One of the things I’m most excited about, I have to say, is the groups that now have a home. Some of our most wonderful local organizations like the Gay Men’s Choruswere bouncing from theater to theater and were having to do three shows at the museum. So I am thrilled that this will be their new permanent home — same for Modern Men.

And I’m extremely excited about the new Palm Springs Symphony.”

That’s music to our queer ears!

“Throughout time, theaters have been a place the LGBTQ community could go. It’s our fantasy world. And The Plaza will continue with that,” Roberts promised.

“Palm Springs is more important than ever for the safety and comfort of the LGBTQ community. And Palm Springs Plaza Theatre will be a direct extension of that. And that’s why I personally got involved. I felt like the one thing that I could do in such a toxic political environment was to help maintain and build on the cultural and arts assets of our community.”

Roberts applauds the parallel preservation of his NorCal neighbors at The Castro in San Francisco.

“These iconic theaters that really helped carry the LGBTQ community through some rough times will be there, these places will remain, and these will stand as pillars to both of their communities: The Castro in San Francisco and The Plaza in Palm Springs.”

Thanks for the stellar segue, J.R.

THE CASTRO THEATRE IN SAN FRANCISCO:

Our traveling show soldiers on. Next stop: the sublime, scintillating city by the Bay.

“I came to San Francisco because it was a welcoming place for me as a gay man,” said David Eugene Perry, writer and founder of San Francisco’s LGBT Rainbow Honor Walk, who recounts his revelatory rendezvous with the Golden City. “The reason that I still love San Francisco and Palm Springs is because these are two cities that are welcoming. And right now there’s a lot of fear in our community.”

Fear is nothing new, but it’s also nothing to ignore.

“During those years of the ’80s and early ’90s, The Castro Theatre became a safe place for a lot of gay men to gather. And it just was really a haven during the darkest years of the AIDS pandemic. After that, it just became even more and more of a place for not only people to grieve, but a place to have celebrations. I really think that it was during the late ’80s and early ’90s that The Castro Theatre became kind of a gay cathedral.”

The Spanish Colonial Baroque building has beckoned boldness for generations.

“The Castro Theatre is 102 years old,” Perry said. “Marc Huestis during the ’90s did some incredible events where he brought in people like Debbie Reynolds, Kim Novak, all these incredible Hollywood stars. They would come in to see their film screen and answer questions from the audience. Armistead Maupin made his very last appearance in San Francisco at The Castro Theatre during the premiere of the latest Tales of the City TV series. Over the years, political figures have come to talk there and share their stories of inspiration. There really is no other venue like it in San Francisco, I would dare say in California.”

But it’s the local luminaries that Perry vows to commemorate.

“There are now 44 bronze plaques on the sidewalks of Castro,” he said. “There’s another 20 that are going to be installed in the next two years. It took 20 years to get the first plaques done, but people were dying of AIDS, and I thought: I want people to always know how important this moment was to the gay community. So preserving this history is something that’s a personal commitment to me. … I know the importance of The Castro Theatre to the LGBTQ community at this moment when so much is under fire. We’re seeing an assault on creativity. And so much of the United States’ cultural community is based in the queer community. So, when the arts are under fire, that means the gay community is under fire. This current political moment, which we will survive because we are a proud and resilient country, and we’re a proud and resilient people because our strength is in our diversity. And no one presidential administration is going to keep us down.”

A genteel warrior, Perry shares a rallying cry with his fearless extended family.

“If you’re worried as a trans person, bi person, a non-gender conforming person, you need to know that we have all fought these battles before and we are not going away and we will win this. We just need to keep on keeping on.”

In the spirit of progressive thinking, The Castro Theatre team has brought the establishment into the queer and now.

“You’re going to have, for the first time in over 100 years, an air conditioning and heating and circulation system,” Perry said. “Also, the organ that has become so important to all the film screenings and the sing-alongs is going to be upgraded to a brand new state-of-the-art theatrical organ. It will be the biggest theatrical organ in the world, and that will be installed in November.”

In addition to raising the roof, The Castro will feature retractable raked floors that expand and collapse on demand. “You’ll be able to do spoken word events, you’ll be able to do standing concerts,” he said. “So it truly is going to become a multi-use facility without losing all of the important traditional performances.”

Perry sees that action of time as a brilliant proscenium that frames our collective turbulence and triumphs.

“The fact that you’ve got The Plaza Theatre in Palm Springs from the ’30s and The Castro Theatre in San Francisco from the ’20s, all being brought back to life at the same time, shows two things. One: History is important. Two: California, North and South, respects its architectural heritage, but it also respects the place that both these theaters have in the lives of the community. I’m proud to say that I’m going to be there for both opening nights. I’m here for the opening night of The Plaza in Palm Springs in December, and I’ll be there for the opening night of The Castro Theatre in February of 2026.”

We can’t wait to join you, David.

The stage is set. The air bristles with anticipation. The show will go on.

October 11 in Palm Springs Boo2Bullying Presents Third Annual “Kick Bullying to the Curb” 

Media Contact:
David Perry & Associates, Inc. / (415) 676-7007 / news@davidperry.com

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Saturday, October 11 – National Coming Out Day — in Palm Springs
Boo2Bullying Presents Third Annual “Kick Bullying to the Curb”

Free Community Wellness Festival and Celebrity Kickball Tournament:

Steve Knill of “The Voice” Fame to Perform the National Anthem

3 October 2025 – Palm Springs, CA: Boo2Bullying is back in Palm Springs with its super-powered third annual “Kick Bullying to the Curb” community wellness festival, Saturday, October 11 from 4pm – 7pm at Power Stadium in Sunrise Park (1901 E. Baristo Road). The nonprofit, nationally recognized for its outreach, mentoring, inspiration, and suicide prevention programs, will once again transform National Coming Out Day into a celebration of inclusion, resilience, and community strength.

The day will culminate in a celebrity kickball game at 6pm, pitting Team Palm Springs against Team Coachella. This year’s rosters feature business leaders, artists, athletes, and advocates from across the Coachella Valley and beyond.

Launching the event in star-spangled style will be Palm Springs’ own Steve Knill – beloved from Season 17 of The Voice – performing the National Anthem. Music throughout the festival will be curated by DJ Aaron Aldosirio.

“Every child and every family deserves a safe and welcoming environment,” said Dimitri Halkidis, Founder & President of Boo2Bullying. “This event is more than a game – it’s a movement to create communities where kindness and inclusion win every time. And what better day to share this message than October 11: National Coming Out Day.”

Palm Springs Mayor Ron DeHarte praised the event’s impact: “Palm Springs is proud to support Boo2Bullying and this joyful festival. When we stand together against hate, we stand taller as a community — diverse, inclusive, and strong.”

Tara Lazar, Captain of Team Palm Springs, acclaimed chef, restaurateur, hotelier, and philanthropist, underscored the importance of nourishing both body and spirit: “Good food is a right, not a privilege. By bringing F10 Love to this event, we’re making sure families know that health, dignity, and joy are for everyone. Together with Boo2Bullying, we’re feeding both stomachs and souls — and reminding young people that they belong.”

Connie Golds, Captain of Team Coachella, added: “This is about teamwork – not just on the kickball field, but in life. When we work together, we can create safe spaces where everyone belongs.”

From 4pm – 5:30pm, festival-goers can explore wellness booths, community resources, and family activities. Highlights include:

  • The Palm Springs High School Cheer Squad
  • The Mobile Zoo of Southern California with its “Cool Critters” show
  • Free hot dogs, nachos, icy lemonade, and more courtesy of sponsors and partners
  • F10 Love’s food truck “Frankie,” designed by Palm Springs artist Aaron Hansen, bringing fresh, sustainable meals directly to the community

At 6:00pm, the kickball showdown begins:

Teams & Celebrity Players

Team Palm Springs (Captain: Tara Lazar)
David White (P.S. Chamber of Commerce), Brittne Watson (P.S. Chamber of Commerce), Tara Lazar (chef, restaurateur, hotelier, philanthropist), Tony Signoret, Jordan Signoret, Jessica Collins, Dimitri Halkidis (Founder & President, Boo2Bullying), Maya Stojan-Clever (Swiss-born American actress, known for her roles as Tory Ellis on Castle and Kara Palamas on Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D.; B2B Ambassador), Honor Chapman, Jennifer Thompson, Michael Green, Nick Chinlund: American actor, The Chose, The Godfather of Harlem, Con Air.

Team Coachella (Captain: Connie Golds)
Connie Golds, Debra Ann Mumm, Brice Williamson, Brady Williamson, Eddie Aguilar, Calista Vassios, Nikolai Vassios, Alister Hiner, Benji Bautista, Bobbi Chindlund, Todd Clever (American retired rugby union player), Janeshia Adams-Ginyard (American actress, stunt woman, and professional wrestler, best known as Nomble of the Dora Milaje in Marvel’s Black Panther)

Sponsors & Partners

Presenting Sponsors:

  • James MacMillan
  • Bighorn Cares
  • VRTX Lab (official sneaker sponsor for all players)

Additional Sponsors:

  • City of Palm Springs
  • F10 Love
  • Steve Tobin & Johnny Krupa / Grace Helen Spearman Foundation
  • Contour Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery Center
  • David Perry & Associates, Inc.
  • Desert Healthcare District & Foundation
  • Kid Dangerous
  • The Bianco Group

Community Partners:

  • Boys & Girls Club Palm Springs
  • Palm Springs High School Cheer Squad
  • Transgender Health and Wellness Center
  • College of the Desert
  • Hope & Healing Counseling Services

About Boo2Bullying
Founded in 2011 after founder Dimitri Halkidis lost a close friend to suicide, Boo2Bullying empowers youth and families through outreach, mentoring, education, and community programs. Each year, the nonprofit reaches thousands of young people with tools to build self-esteem, speak up against discrimination, and create inclusive communities free from bullying.

For more information about Boo2Bullying programs, or to schedule an appearance in your school or organization, contact Dimitri Halkidis at (310) 435-8528 / dimitrihalkidis@boo2bullying.org or visit www.boo2bullying.org.

MEDIA: Onsite coverage is strongly encouraged. Interviews available with celebrity players, musical performers, Boo2Bullying leadership, and sponsors. Local TV, radio, and print outlets welcome — advance arrangements can be coordinated.

Caravanserai Names New Co-CEOs

Caravanserai Names New Co-CEOs

media contact:
David Perry & Associates, Inc.
(415) 676-7007 | news@davidperry.com

Caravanserai Names New Co-CEOs: Franzene Minott and Bradley Chargualaf

Leadership Transition Marks Exciting New Chapter for Social Entrepreneurship Nonprofit

Bradley chargualaf franzene minott
Bradley Chargualaf and Franzene Minott

2 October 2025 – Palm Springs, CA: Caravanserai, a nationally recognized leader in social entrepreneurship, today announced the appointment of Franzene Minott and Bradley Chargualaf as their new Co-Chief Executive Officers. Minott and Chargualaf succeed Mihai Patru, Caravanserai CEO.

“We are grateful to Mihai for his extraordinary service and vision,” said Caravanserai Board Chair Craig Dougherty. “He not only built Caravanserai into a force for impact, but also mentored the next generation of leaders who will carry our mission forward. Franzene and Bradley represent the very best of Caravanserai — talented, committed, and deeply experienced.”

Franzene Minott has served as Caravanserai’s Chief Operating Officer, leading strategy development and core initiatives to connect under-resourced entrepreneurs with capital, training, and technical assistance. She is recognized for her success in building cross-sector partnerships with government agencies, financial institutions, and businesses.

“Caravanserai has always stood for opening doors of opportunity where they are most needed,” said Minott. “I’m honored to step into this role alongside Bradley, and together we will continue to strengthen the pathways for entrepreneurs who too often have been overlooked. Our vision is clear: inclusive, thriving communities built on the success of under-resourced entrepreneurs.”

Bradley Chargualaf has served as Caravanserai’s Chief Technology Officer and as Director of the Caravan SBDC, where he has overseen technology strategy, program delivery, and partnerships that support hundreds of small businesses each year. As one of Caravanserai’s earliest employees, Bradley has advanced through progressive leadership roles since 2021.

“I’ve been part of Caravanserai since the early days, and I’ve seen firsthand the incredible impact this organization has on entrepreneurs and families,” said Chargualaf. “As Co-CEO, I look forward to building on that legacy—especially by expanding our use of technology and partnerships to help small businesses innovate, adapt, and grow. Franzene and I are committed to leading with both heart and strategy.”

“Palm Springs is proud to partner with Caravanserai and to see the organization thriving under new leadership,” said Mayor Ron DeHarte. “Franzene and Bradley bring the vision and energy our community needs to ensure local entrepreneurs have the tools to succeed. Their leadership will strengthen our economy and help create opportunities for all who call Palm Springs home.”

Caravanserai’s commitment to empowering entrepreneurs from under-resourced communities remains steadfast, even as the organization expands into new sectors and geographies. Recent growth includes:

• A partnership with the State of California supporting small farmers through training, technical assistance, and grants.

• Expansion into the High Desert region and a greatly increased collaboration with the City of Palm Springs to serve local entrepreneurs.

• A statewide research initiative with the Governor’s Office to strengthen business technical assistance programs for entrepreneurs with neurodiversity.

Caravanserai encourages its community of donors, partners, and supporters to connect with the new leadership and continue building on the organization’s record of impact.

“This is an exciting new chapter—and with the continued support of our partners and donors, the best is yet to come,” added Dougherty.

About Caravanserai:

Caravanserai empowers entrepreneurs from under-resourced communities by providing access to capital, training, and technical tools to succeed. Through innovative programs and partnerships, Caravanserai supports small businesses, builds inclusive economies, and drives community resilience.

For more information, visit www.caravanseraiproject.org.